Thursday, November 19, 2009

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Friday, November 6, 2009

Monday, November 2, 2009

The Red 2009'

Ahh... the Red. This years trip was awesome! We defiantly had some opposition from the weather and illness but I think we came out on top at the end with some beautiful accents! Good times and amazing rock. Until next year!
I think this might be my favorite photo from the trip. This is a cool guy from Colorado named Ralph on a route called Dogleg. I would say this is a top contender for "Best 12a in the Red." Very aesthetic route!!!
Me taking a burn on Dogleg. Cutting my feet I believe cost me the move... I later discovered a tiny little nub on the face that made it much more doable for me.
This route was super fun! Look at how big the moves are on this thing! So aesthetic!!!


T was a wild man on this thing. In going for the onsight he mad multiple throws in each of the three big dyno areas and some how stayed on only to get shut down a little higher. It was a beautiful fight. Good go T. (He sent it next go)
Huge moves = Fun!




This was actually our first day in the Red, we fled the rain and came here, the sanctuary, and got the moves down on the route of the trip. Jesus Wept. This is a photo of a crazy Italian kid named Dario on-sighting it. It goes at 12d. Strong kid. Nice go Dario.



Eliot looking super strong on Jesus Wept...
Gotta love the euro belay... the climber was at the crux, with a skipped clip facing a thirty footer when I snapped this photo. Hmm...

This is Triple Sec, these are some of the coolest moves I have done on rock. The route is aptly named due to its three main crux sections. A very smooth face at the beginning with a simple right leaning line of pockets to a big hard throw to a rounded edge. Then moderate climbing to a good rest and then another short section of moderate moves to an amazing mid route boulder problem consisting of small edge, pinky- ring finger pocked, two finger pocket, big pull to a shallow sloping two finger edge, and a seemingly huge throw to a sloping but positive rail. Then it is more really fun climbing to a good rest and then a final boulder problem, that consists of a big pull to a bad one finger pocket that you can mash your ring finger on top a bit to help you make another big pull to a good ledge and then pull through to the chains on good holds. FUN! Aesthetic climbing. Beautiful.

Dario on some hard looking unknown...

Me gearing up for Jesus Wept.

Me making the big throw in the first crux of Jesus Wept. Thanks Dario for the Photos!

Me looking totally gassed after the first crux on Jesus Wept, resting up for the remaining 70ft of climbing ahead! Lol.
These next few photos are of T and Kevin on a really cool warm up wall. I believe it is called Plate Tectonics. Super fun climbing.













Beautiful fall leaves with 50 Words for Pumped in the background.
A random photo of the array of pockets at the Red.

Super cool route.
Dogleg with the fall colors.
Kevin on the crazy Cliff Hanger start of Toker. 11a.
Indy wall. Short but very beautiful.




Kevin Redpointing a really fun 10c at the Indy wall. Nice Kevin!



T on Jesus Wept. This was an EPIC assent. We got on this thing the first day of the trip, it became T's redpoint goal for the trip. On his second day on it he got to the final crux hold, only one move away from sending the route. Close. We returned many times only to fall again and again at the same point. Three weeks later, the last day of the trip T gets his last burn on the route. Last chance. We are going home. First burn of the day. He hits the hold! Flexes for an unseemly amount of time. Grunts a bit. Flexes some more, seemingly forever, and whips. The suspense was unbelievable. Now with only so much energy left and no more time to come back another day. He lowered off, rested, and went back for one more burn... And Jesus finally Wept.